Wednesday 5 August - Still at Arsine

We have really got to like this jewel of a place. It's as far removed from the concentration camp sites experienced in Spain and Portugal as it is possible to be: completely without fuss, we were not asked for identification, things are done in a relaxed way by trust, the facilities are good and not overleaded (except when McD had to queue for a shower!) and there are more campers than camping cars which tells its own story. However, we were out of grub and money so we drove the van into the delightful village of La Grave (through a horridly narrow, dark tunnel) to rectify the situation. We gave a lift to a heavily laden German couple who were taking the cable car to La Meije (the highest mountain) where they would climb on the ice and spend a night in a refuge. The domestics were quickly and easily done. Even with time for a much needed coffee we were back to reclaim our slot by 10.30 only to find that the newly arrived campervan owner had pulled our electricity cable out to establish his supply! He was fat and French. We made sure he knew that we were less than pleased.

We donned our walking shoes and chose a gentler route this time down the valley of La Romanche towards La Grave. Mostly this was in the shade of the trees but with a few sporty climbs and descents. Again, everyone we met was so friendly. A 50ish lady with an ample bosom and her maman making haste slowly up a steep path; a lovely young student girl working in a restaurant in La Grave for the summer taking walking exercise to improve her fitness after giving up smoking; families of old and young walking and taking picnics under the trees and near the ever present river. We stopped after about 2 hours, had our sandwich lunch in the shade and both nodded off - but only for a few minutes! We ambled back at an easy pace (M1's calf muscle playing up) and finding our tentative way past two mules who had blocked the trail to nuzzle each other. We stopped at the quiet hamlet of Villar d'Arene for amost welcome beer and ice cream before the last hour back to our site. There is a very well run Bar/Restaurant/Refuge within 40m of our parking slot and rather than bother with grub on board, we booked a table and had a seriously tasty meal cooked and served by the family and at a very reasonable price.

Over dinner, we talked enthusiastically about the plans for the next day - to follow the track to the highest refuge at Adele Planchard (3169m) and overnight there. Challenging for us both as neither had walked at that altitude before so there was a little apprehension too.