Along with our French companions, we chose the second sitting for breakfast - at 7.30am! We all managed to get up and dressed without intruding on each other then it was cereal, bread rolls and coffee all finished within the half hour, a quick pack, some farewells and we were out starting our walking day at 8.20am and enjoyed meeting a few marmottes on early morning exercise. The costs had been reasonable at 72 euros each, including dinner, bed, breakfast, all our drinks (we had had wine!) and a packed lunch each for the day's exertions.
Our goals for the day were: firstly the Col de la Seigne (2512m) which marked the Italo/French border, then to swing left following the contours to the Col des Chavannes (2596m). This latter stage was not as simple as it sounds: there were many granite scree fields which made the footing precarious with some areas of the final climb to regain the height to reach the Col a real scramble up the narrow track. M1 as usual in the trail and probably on his limits but he got there in the end. The effort was wonderfully worthwhile with fabulous views of Mont Blanc and the valley to the south towards la Thuile our reward. More than that, there wer two elegantly uniformed lady members of the Carabinieri there too (not a bead of sweat between them) one of whom agreed to take our photo at the cairn and with MB in the background.
The descent down to the valley was steep initially and needed concentration but it was glorious stuff. We were accompanied by the constant,tranquil tones from the bells of a herd of cows being taken up the mountain for milking accompanied by the occasional barks of the cowherd dog. We could see them moving from high above. This was Transhumance in action. We believe that they were milked by a portable machine and the produce transferred into an enclosed van parked high up after its replacement was inched up the track. As we descended from our near solitary position on the ridge, we could see other walkers (and joggers and mountain bikers) down in the valley. We took our picnic lunch (boiled egg, ham and cheese rolls, apple crush and a chocolate bar) near Elisabetta and refilled our water bottles with the cool water rushing by. We had little option but descend to the track but at the bridge near lac de Combal, we had a case conference and elected to climb again to Damon and take the high road away from the crowds. This was a great decision as it was a stimulating track. Shortly after starting, we were overtaken by a guided group who were very serious about their quest 'Skyrunners of Serre Chevalier'. All tanned and honed muscles they sped past us easily - except for the last batch who who having a less easy time of it. After that we took some pleasure in keeping pace with the back markers and sometimes overtaking them!. At the high point, the views down the valley were spectacular from the near vertical perch we had reached. Great stuff but all down hill from there. I am conscious that it is so difficult to describe the mountains and the views we have experienced without falling into the trap of overusing a number of superlatives. That's my own inadequacy really but the mountains are unchanging in their physical presence (at least in our time frame) but they are also constantly changing by the weather, the light, sun and colour of the time of day. Their presence dominates and governs moods, actions and life in their shadow.
We caught up with the guided group at Maison Vieille on Col Checrouit, a rifugio that looked more like a kid's playground as families had reached it using the ski lifts. It didn't quite fit our picture of a place for a quiet beer so we continued down through the ski areas to Praz Neyron which we had certainly been to when skiing. A warm welcome and two ice cold beers later, we set off. Somehow we chose different paths just 20m apart - McD on the correct one down through the trees to Dolonne, M1 slightly lower but nowhere to go once the telecabine had been reached. There was no realistic other way after 8 hours than to accept the lift down whereas McD continued to descend the 700m to Dolonne down a very sharp gradient. We met up at the bottom hoping that a small bar would provide much needed refreshment on the shortest route back to where the van was parked. None appeared and we had to slog another 2 miles or so up the road as quickly as tired legs could manage. At least the Val Veny restaurant was open and immediately gained our custom. The old boys in there sharing a glass of wine with the proprietor were in good mood. One with a much lived in face and under a battered and badged mountain hut was particularly friendly. We booked our meal there for a little later after a much needed clean up as we had sweated and were very dusty too. Almost new men and with the satisfaction of being on the mountain for 9 hours of walking our appetite was primed. The food was appetising but simple in an atmosphere made cosy by the families who were also dining as we listened to their gentle Italian language. A terrific day.
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