Monday, 6 July 2009

Saturday 4 July - At Salamanca





In view of yesterday's high temperature, we elected to rise early for our trip round the Arapiles battlefield. We had done most of the sights by 09:30 and secured a very good understanding of an important and decisive victory for Wellington's army. The features were easy to place and appreciate and there were useful maps and signs to help us too. It was all wonderfully evocative to see the land and terrain over which the troops had marched, ridden and fought. This was a much more free moving and open battle than others of the campaign with key manouevres made in response to weaknesses which developed in the French tactics. A crushing victory for Wellington which enhanced his reputation considerably not least with the French generals.
The problem with finishing the battle tour so early was that we then had the whole of the rest of the day to fill. We cleaned up and caught the local bus into Salamanca, a most delightful place with a real buzz to it no doubt in response to its wonderful architecture and being a living city. We mooched around before settleng for a cold beer in the Plaza Mayor and to watch the world go by. A few odd balls but in the main people were well dressed - the girls particularly so. We thoroughly enjoyed being entertained by a bulky guitarist with a deep, powerful voice busking on the steps of the cathedral. He earned out Euro.
The Plaza Mayor as well as being the focal point for social life is also used for weddings and at least two took place while we were there. Very happy events they were too with fire crackers, exploding confetti and rice throwing. An indifferent lunch followed although the bottle of Rioja reduced the disappointment. A few more glasses of wine in some terrific bars away from the main square seduced us somewhat as our timing for the bus return trip was awry so we stayed on had had more - too much more for our own good. Sleep intervened eventually once we got back to base. We were both suitably full of remorse the next morning - but pretty slow!

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