Monday 6 July - Burgos

Continuing our drift towards the NE, Burgos was the next obvious port of call. A city that had featured strongly in Spain's history being in a focal point on the route from Portugal and Spain to France and the rest of Europe. Armies from both sides of the Peninsular War passed through Burgos and Wellington laid seige to the castle in late 1812 but despite several attempts to force a French surrender, he eventually quietly withdrew when it was clear that he would have to face superior numbers as the French reinforced. He moved back using the Douro as a defensive feature (but remember the French exploit at Tordesillas) and wintered finally in Ciudad Rodrigo, much further to the west.

It's difficult to know what to expect of a town by reading military history, but Burgos was a delightful surprise. A modern, lively city built on it's illustrious historical past, it had immediate appeal. Most famous perhaps for being the birthplace of El Cid in the 12th century and his wars against the Moors and for Christian kings, his romanticised statues abound. We cycled into town from a pretty full campsite under trees by the River Arianzon on cycle tracks that should be the envy of all modern cities to savour the architecture and enjoy a beer in the Plaza Mayor. Gastronomic specialities here are black pudding, cheese and the suckling lamb. Again we will follow the Lonely Planet recommendation and dine at the Casa Ojeda restaurant which looked wonderfully welcoming and traditional. Hope it lives up to expectations.