M1 up and about at 7.00am and set off on his
bike through Gouveia then on the road to Manteigas. This was best described as up, up, level, cobbles, up, up up. Hard work but invigorating. Breakfast of fresh bread rolls and plums much appreciated. We took friendly farewells of our new Dutch friends - campinistas and hosts alike.
Ciudad Rodrigo had obvious attractions as a compact fortified city and as a key garrison throughout Spanish history and especially Wellington's campaign of early 1812. However, we felt obliged to visit Fuentes de Onoro where the road to Ciudad Rodrigo crosses the frontier. Here, there was a major engagement around this small village which looked much as it must have done in 1811. The fighting was so heavy among the single storey dwellings that the bodies were piled high between the houses. We explored the local terrain and features which affected the battle on our bikes and the picture shows M2 at the memorial in Fuentes.
The city of Ciudad Rodrigo just 20 miles along the road which commanded the main route from Spain into Portugal, had been taken by the French after a seige in 1810. When Wellington was able to contemplate broadening his campaign by driving the French back through Spain into France, he knew that he had to capture this vital citadel. After a short seige lasting only 11 days, the fortress was stormed with two breaches exploited on the north and north east walls. Wellington lost two Generals that night: McKinnon, blown up by a mine and 'Black Bob' Craufurd of the Light Division who died of wounds received.
The town is not perched as high as its strategic position might suggest but it is still visible from a considerable distance when approaching from east or west. The walls and principal buildings are dominated by the castle and by the cathedral and all of honey coloured stone. Entry is through just four heavily protected gates. The buildings are nothing short of majestic with decorated porticos, balconies, lintels and doorways which pay tribute to its long history as a a seat of power and influence. The cathedral and surrounding buildings still show the deep pock marks of cannon ball damage from the two seiges. We found the sites of the two breaches and the plaques which commemorate the achievement and the deaths of the brave soldiers who gave their lives in ending the siege.
The town itself has a confidence in its identity and it showed that clearly in the fine way the buildings were preserved and kept in use (cf the Post Office) and the pleasing atmosphere of the people meeting and greeting each other amidst the buzz of the central areas.
We liked it so much, over a coffee and huge brandy, we decided to stay another night and do justice to the Napoleonic museum and take advantage of the attractive bars and restaurants.
Pics (no particular order): M2 at Fuentes, Agueda River at sunset, Wellington's lodgings after the siege, the Cathedral (note scars), Memorial to Craufurd
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