Wed 10 June - Badajoz

Our next destination being only 40 miles away, we gave EMU a real birthday treat at the local Lavamania. A high pressure shampoo and scrub-up to improve her looks after six weeks on the road made her look a real lady afterwards, despite the odd dent or two.

We took the back road to Badajoz through mile after mile of agricultural land full of fruit trees, tomatoes, corn, potatoes all looking in splendid order. Against all reasonable statistical odds, as we closed in on Badajoz, a car passed us tooting its horn madly and with its two occupants waving and beaming at us – it was Pedro and Antonia! A pleasing but totally unexpected rendezvous.

This route brought us into the city past the San Cristobal fort with the main fortress clearly visible from way outside. There was no parking on the city side so we found a quiet area to the north and got on our bikes to explore this fascinating battle site. Firstly, the fort at San Cristobal. This was bigger and more prominent than expected but completely abandoned and in full disrepair. So much so that in England it would have been fenced off as a danger to the public. Nevertheless, we tramped the surviving ramparts and embrasures, soaked up the commanding views of Badajoz and viewed the north and west approaches. The fort was well designed with outer wall, inner wall and deep ‘killing ground’ between with plenty of defensive angles from which to rain fire down on to any attacker. San Cristobal and the main objective of Badajoz were both ‘invested’ according to Paget and we need to know more about what this actually meant: isolation? bombardment? intimidation? Probably all these and more but what exactly?

The main fortress dominated Badajoz and, on our bikes we skirted round the walls, marvelling at their construction and size, eventually finding a way into the citadel itself. There were some unidentified ruined buildings but the fort now housed the Junta headquarters, the University, a museum (closed) and a park complete with kiddies play area. And oh yes! Another monument in granite without a name or tribute completely covered in graffiti and rubbish! Nowhere was there any recognition of the 1812 battle perhaps because of the apalling behaviour of the British troops once the fortress had fallen which the Spanish did not wish to remember. Also, we must recognise that there were many other aspects of their history which meant more to the citizens of Badajoz.

An important visit to a very compact battle site. The troops had been incredibly brave to follow Wellington’s orders that the siege should end before being engaged by the French army arriving from the east. The carnage, fear, exposure, noise, gallantry and blood lust can only be imagined but seeing the site made it all the more real.

Mid afternoon, we cycled back to the van and a short trip and an ice cream later we were in Elvas, Portugal for our night stop. Is this where the plums come from or perhaps that is Elbas?

Pics - Badajoz Walls San Cristobal from Badajoz Badajoz Courtyard San Cristobal from Badajoz San Cristobal Fort