We woke up to a glorious morning in our quiet glade and breakfasted 'al fresco' before moving off by 9.30. As we suspected, Bucaco was just 4km along the road and approached through a large stone arch with the cobbled road winding upwards through a heavily wooded area. It seemed more like driving into a private estate. Parking was well organised but we hadn't expected the glorious setting of an old convent, the splendid Palace Hotel set in formal, well tended gardens in the surrounds of an extensive arboretum. Firstly, we walked further on to view the excellent Military Museum which had many original exhibits and engravings mostly about the Battle at Bucaco. This occupied us for nearly two hours then another short walk to the monument to the battle set somewhat higher at about 580m. Although the Bucaco Ridge is now heavily wooded, we had to imagine the scene in September 1810 when the terrain was more open and scrubby. Nevertheless, we were completely unable to understand why Massena committed his army against the British and Portugese with a full frontal assault up what was so steep a ridge as to give the impression it was a wall. Historians claim that Massena had poor intelligence about Wellington's location and strength and believed that the Portugese would not fight but even so, the route he chose was a difficult one, the terrain channelled his effort into favourable Allied killing zones and a near rout occurred. Portugese pride in the fine way their soldiers acquitted themselves was an important factor in the future fortunes of the war. There were graphic ceramic tributes to Wellington and other scenes of the battle inside the 5 star Palace Hotel and we took pleasure in standing under the very same olive tree in the courtyard under which Wellington was said to have sat. He stayed the night in the adjacent convent and this is marked by an inscription.
We needed to celebrate and mark this moment in our memories and do justice to this famous victory so we took lunch on the terrace accompanied by some fine wines for which the hotel is famous. A superb experience with roasted suckling pig and saddle of rabbit as main courses!
The venue was so good that we decided to remain there overnight although as soon as we had moved the van into the optimum position, two other camper cars (from France) arrived to slightly spoil our idyll. No worries - they never came out it seemed! M1 couldn't resist a bike ride so ventured out the 15 km downhill to Mortagua knowing that it would be the same uphill on the way back but it was hugely enjoyable. Needing no supper after such a fine lunch, we walked uphill again and found Brigadier General Robert Craufurd's command post well positioned near an old windmill. This is where 'Black Bob' urged his men of the 52nd to 'Avenge John Moore' which they duly did.
All in all, a great day.
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