Thu 11 June - Elvas to Ortiga

Elvas, just over the border in Portugal, is another amazing fortress town flanked by two 17th century forts and with a massive and dominant aquaduct 7.79 km long from main fortress to presumably a reservoir designed in the 15^th but constructed in the 16^th century. A huge achievement. The city had no particular relevance to the Peninsular War although no doubt the armies of all protagonists would have passed through its environs at some stage. Guarding the Eastern approaches to Portugal, the main town was confined within the impressive citadel and was very much as it must have been for centuries – give or take the tourist centre and the cafes. All streets were cobbled which made cycling difficult.

Having cleaned up and loaded the van, we said goodbye to the pleasant, shaded campsite where we had dined the previous evening on excellent omelette, salad and patatas fritas and the waiter’s choice of a 14.5% local red wine. More like a fortified port but it slipped down pretty well! The sugared plums do come from here by the way but were not in evidence.

We shunned the main road and went north through Portalegre on quieter and more interesting roads. Castelo de Vide looked like yet another picture book fortified town on a prominent hilltop but we declined to take our venerable van into those compact streets so turned about on the E802/N118 in search of our overnight stop. Much to our surprise, Daniel (Garmin road adviser) identified a campsite in Ortiga over a large dam on the Tejo (Tagus) which was absolutely splendid. This was a very cheap municipal facilty in pristine condition and with excellent facilities and a warm welcome from Marisa and her full set of teeth braces. There was even an age discount for over 65s so M1 was charged just one Euro against M2’s two! The temperature registering 35C, we both headed for the safe swimming area in the lake and some cold beers in the restaurant/bar. Plenty of youngsters there but all well behaved and courteous. Supper on board, a chew of the fat and an outline of a plan for the morrow saw us through the evening.