Fresh bread for breakfast then a quick departure towards Vimeiro to get back on the battle trail. Looking at the terrain, it was clear that this would be better achieved on foot. The Vimeiro monument was well signposted, as noted by Paget, but when we reached it, it was simply splendid. We were amazed at its extent, scale, permanence and the clear affection which had been lavished on this tribute to the British and Portugese troops who had prevailed at this important battle. Road signs were dedicated to the battle, there were impressive blue and white tile tableaux depicting scenes from the battle and the disposition of forces surrounding the monument. This had been erected on the centenary of the battle (21 August 1808), the second battle in four days after Rolica when the Napoleonic forces had been defeated for the first time – a significant milestone. This 1908 anniversary had been attended by King Carlos although two years later he had been assassinated during the revolution.
The townsfolk had celebrated the 200th anniversary in August last year with ceremonies and a recreation of the battle together with the building and furnishing of a well kept, clean and extensive visitor centre with many more tributes and memorabilia inside. The volunteer curator, Pedro, showed us round with obvious pride and knowledge and we spent a very fulfilling hour or more soaking up the information. It was Pedro who kindly furnished us with the 37 page report of the inquiry into the Sintra Agreement. We bought some Battle of Vimeiro wine and a key ring to show our support for their efforts and left with a real admiration for what the local townsfolk and Portugese Army had achieved.
On the way back down into the village, we stopped to look at the house which Wellington had stayed in and noted more road plaques and an 1808 Cafe/Restaurant.
Back to the van in good heart, we drove into Torres Vedras to the fortress and to orientate ourselves for our next quest – to find some of the Lines (deep, stone, fortified ditches built to Wellington’s personal direction along the lines of the surrounding hills) to protect Lisbon and the British Army from invasion by the French. These fortifications coupled with the natural terrain achieved their object admirably as General Massena retreated when he saw them for the first time in late 1811. Massena had, though, given the British engineers and their Portugese work force an unchallenged year in which to construct these defences.
Down from the fortress, we found the sign to the Lines of Torres Vedras Nos 20,21,22 and 23 and the Fort Sao Vicente (there had been 152 fortifications in total which were numbered according to their date of completion). A steep climb later we were there and these impressive defences were in front of us with all their strength, complexity and durability for all to see. We clambered around taking photographs and wondering at the vision, planning, effort and execution of this amazing project which had enabled Wellington to preserve his forces ready to advance through Portugal, Spain and into France. A second, wonderful aspect of the day.
As we departed, we had already resolved not to return to Camp Guantanamo Bay and headed further south towards Ericeira. We hadn’t lunched so when we spotted a delightful beach in a steep sided cove at Colada we parked at the bottom just yards from the beach and resolved to park there for the night. Families and sun bathers slipped away to leave us in sole occupation by mid evening. Although we were slightly nervous that we might be moved on (we were not camping, merely parking after all) we had a trouble free night shared only by the beach tractor which cleaned the beach at 1.30 am(!). A cool shower before breakfast of scrambled eggs (finest eggs yet) saw us on our way the following morning feeling much more independent.
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