Awaking to a very wet and threatening weather scenario, our breakfast conference quickly established our wish to head for drier, warmer weather which we judged to be south and over the border into Spain. Having settled up with la belle mam’selle Stephanie we urged the stately lady up the Col de Pourtalet at her own speed. There was nervousness about the proximity to the walls and ditches on the near side but up we went through the cloud shrouded climb. We stopped off at a refuge of the Club Alpin Francais about half way where the splendid Marie-France Paquaa welcomed us with a cup of the best coffee we had had. A short tour of the immaculate but basic facilities later we were on our way to the top. The scenery (when we could see it) was magnificent and gradually opened out as we approached the summit. Passing through the Spanish border post was like moving into a different world. Immediately, building work which looked of pleasing architectural merit was everywhere as it seemed clear that the Spanish saw the chance of exploiting the ski scene. The developments centred on Sallent looked attractive and the investment in ski infrastructure of lifts and supporting facilities was apparent in what must be a good bowl to attract persistent winter snow. Something to look out for in next years ski brochures.
The scenery quickly changed on our more rapid descent leaving behind the beech woods of the French side for oak, ash and pine on the Spanish side then more open country of Aragon. We ploughed on enjoying the terrain and decided to end the day at Huesca, a town of 75,000 or so and well off the beaten tourist track. There was a reasonable camp site close to the town centre (and an impressive football facility) which allowed us the short walk into town to savour the Saturday night atmosphere of this provincial town. We were struck by its cosmopolitan nature and the easy way the generations mingled and inter-acted. When last in England did we see a group of teenagers greet each other courteously (here a double kiss) then converse animatedly but quietly at a cafe drinking coffee or soft drinks?
We followed the recommendation of the Lonely Planet guide and secured a table at Hervi’s Restaurant where the food was generous and excellent but, above all, where the busy and convivial atmosphere set the tone. Marvellous! A coffee and an anonymous brandy at another bar saw us happily relaxed and just about able to find our way back to the van. Crash!
Pic 1 - Le Gave Pic 2 - Market at Laruns Pic 3 - Col de Pourtalet at 1794m
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