Sun 31 May - Time to move on

After a grumble about the rave music, we surfaced early and abluted after a fashion in the municipal facilities. Least said the better but the bricks won!

Nevertheless, a couple of warm croissants and some fresh walnut bread later we were ready for a bike ride before departure. We rode separately and in different directions but both agreed that this was a great way to start the day rather than wait for a ride later. As it happened, when we arrived at our next destination - a glorious campsite next to the Lot at St Cirq Lapopie - no sooner had we parked, erected the flagpole, changed the electrical plug (again!) to match the supply, de-bussed all the bikes and golf clubs etc than the heavens opened to loud claps of thunder. No chance of riding in that!

We had driven about 200km via a little place known to M2 and others from a previous holiday, Labastide de Murat, for a most excellent lunch in warm sunshine on a 'terrasse ombragee'. Tonight, we'll dine in after a most welcome hot shower and a recharge of batteries various. We plan to stay here for two nights so that we can savour all that this lovely area has to offer on roads, river and restaurants.

Sat 30 May - The Tour Recommences

Well, after a quite lovely two weeks at the secluded la Belle Epoque 17th century farmhouse near Bordeille which M2 had arranged for his family holiday, phase three of the Tour starts today. Though we hated saying goodbye to Ann and Annie (not forgetting Keith, Denise and young George who was taught to dive in the pool during the holiday) we had to come to terms with being without them for the next stretch.

We took a mature and responsible approach, cleared the villa, packed the van, reported to Marie-Lyne that we had vacated at 13.00 and feeling somewhat deflated by the departure of our nearest and dearest, we drove 4km gently down the hill for lunch in le Tilleul to discuss options. Unsurprisingly, there was little appetite for a journey so we parked on the meadow next to the river Dronne at - wait for it - Bordeille! We found a secluded spot well way from the other vans which seem to herd together and had a lazy afternoon in the company of a bottle of 2001 Ch Haut Brisson St Emilion Grand Cru Classe. Sketch books came out, calls were made to make sure that everyone had arrived home safely then we had a leisurely supper of sardines, tuna and assorted cheeses - in other words using up the bits and pieces. Quite delicious though.

To bed at about 22.00 only to have a mildly disturbed night from the insistent low frequency rhythms from a rave taking place somehwere down river. The noises petered out at about 04.00 and no damage done to us anyway!

Friday, 15 May - To Perigord

Our long drive meant that we only had some 300km to drive to the quite exquisite town of Brontome, everybody's idea of the perfect provincial French town complete with Abbay, medieval buildings, a meandering river and free parking for Autocampers right in the town centre. Abluti block somewhat basic but otherwise perfect, just 10 yards from the river and 150 yards from the nearest bar/tabac. We even saw an otter swim by!

After a 'whore's bath', a convivial 19 euro meal with some local wine and a leisurely walk back, M2 was able to look forward excitedly to seeing his family the next day. We'll draw a metaphoric veil over the next two weeks of pure holiday with the blog resuming at the end of May when travels resume.

Left to right: Brantome Abbaye; Brantome water wheel

Thursday, 14 May - On the road

Time to head east in order to get to Perigord for the weekend and M2's family holiday. We hit the road by 0830 as we would lose an hour coming into Spain which we did within half an hour. The van kept up her stirling performance as we sped on quiet roads (plenty of evidence of European money) through Zamora, Valladolid, Burgos, Vitoria, San Sebastian and into France at Biarritz. 641km of mostly easy driving through the ever changing scenery. Spain is a huge country and we will look forward to our return. Our chosen overnight stop at a farm listed in Passion France was quickly dismissed as we would have had to park on a pile of old bricks in an unsavoury yard. Our next choice of campsite although easily found was closed so we started a square search of Ondres before finding one which could take us in pine woods close to the beach. Tired and with the strong westerly wind making the 15 deg temperature seem even colder we failed to connect to an electricity supply then realised that the tin of confit de canard bought for our supper was in fact duck gizzards!! Undaunted, we cooked and ate them without fuss - actually, they had little taste to worry about and we are still here to tell the tale!

Wind and rain continued throughout the night but we slept pretty well.

Wednesday, 13 May - Rio Douro

After an excellent bike ride along the sea front at an early hour and before the rain swept in we upped sticks quickly to drive N108 up the magnificent Douro valley. The river is deep, relatively wide and set within steep sides so that the countryside came right down to the waters edge. No water meadows here. The port wine vineyards are well up the valley beyond Regua where the terraces support the vines. Further on, the terrain became more open and less vegetated but none the less impressive. Gradually, the vines gave way to olive and cherry trees but with oranges also growing by the side of the road. The N108 itself was high above the river although we crossed it three times and extremely bendy. The Duchess took it in her stride but at her own pace.

Aiming for a campsite at the end of the main valley which we then realised was not yet open, we carried on eastwards to Braganza, just 20 miles from the Spanish border. The site chosen was quiet and in beautifully wooded slopes. We enjoyed a convivial hour with the owner Arnaldo who was interesting and was studying Adam Smith's 'Wealth of Nations'!

Left to right: Morning at Porto; Rio Douro; The magnificent Douro; Port wine country; M2 relaxes with a friend; Arnaldo at Cepo Verde

Tuesday, 12 May - Porto

As luck would have it, today is the 200th anniversary of Wellington's famous victory over Soult at Porto so an important day for us. We biked into the city and the Ponte de Luis then climbed to the dominant monastery from which W surveyed the scene and made his battle plan. We stood on the same spot at the same time on the same date to see the city, the river and the terrain as he would have seen it (give or take all the modern buildings). Seeing the river span, the steep stone tracks and the bends in the river which W was able to exploit was fascinating. To our left on the south bank some wine barges were moored. Just 4 of these were used to take 30 troops at a time across the Douro to create the bridgehead. We could almost hear the tramp of British boots and the hustle and bustle of the British army executing its formidable tasks - quite moving. It did seem, though, that Soult must have been negligent not to have kept a better eye on his enemy. As it was, he lost the city by mid afternoon along with 800 casualties, the loss of 70 guns, he had to retreat fast to the NE and Wellesley dined on the supper prepared for the French general! Marvellous. We then went to the Musea Militar and the seminary which became a British stronghold and which is still in use as a school. The trip met all our expectations.

Porto is also famous for its port wine houses so we could not waste the opportunity. To Taylor's then in shorts and with bikes for a sumptuous lunch, chilled white port as an aperitif, an excellent Vinho Velhas followed by tawny port with the coffee. M2 now a convert away from the whisky or brandy. A fascinating escorted trip round the cellars followed for an all round good experience. What a day!

Photo: Towards Porto

Monday, 11 May - Into Portugal

M1 rode early up the coast to Oia for good spin before journeying south.  Called in for a haircut and shave in the old fashioned way at a peluqueria - cut throat razor, massage, talc puffer etc and only very limited barber chat. Excellent! A quick exit from a scruffy site then a short drive to the Portuguese run ferry from A Guarda across the Mino to Caminha and Portugal. Immediate impressions were good with houses better maintained, the people less stony faced and they smile more readily. We trundled down the autoroute singing along badly with the Beach Boys - corny, yes, but a sign of good spirits. We found a cheap but well run campismo which looked like a shanty town but was really convenient to the beach area and a 5k bike ride into the centre of Porto along a newly constructed coastal leisure way. After a bit of toing and froing sorting out electricity, water and a few leaks we dined on the beach front with our first introduction to Portuguese wines. Tomorrow we get back on Wellington's trail.

Left to right:  M1 on the ferry; Goodbye Spain - A Guarda

Sunday, 10 May 2009

Up and out and seen on our way by the friendly owner Wolfgang, we continued with the lovely drive to Santiago, destination for so many pilgrims. A shortish look round to wonder at the complexity of the Cathedral and the old city. Noon was struck while we were there and the main bell is definitely cracked! We then decided to press on south on the Autoroute d'Atlantico to A Guarda on the north bank of the River Mino with Portugal on the opposite bank, where we'll go tomorrow by the little ferry. We'll dine on local fish tonight in the town.

Left to right: Ruo de Vilar - Santiago; Cathedral - Santiago

Saturday, 9 May 2009

We bade a fond farewell to Coruna though not to its chaotic traffic. So on to Cape Finisterre because we just had to. The drive was uninteresting through some drab, sleepy towns but the scenery and our spirits improved as we approached the destination. The Cape itself was spectacular. Even on a calm day you could see the hazard to sailors hence the name 'Costa del Morte'. Then on round the scenic coast road with the elderly mobile unit conveying her even older cargo with calm dignity. She is a real friend now. Aiming for Santiago, we cut short to stay in a superbly located campsite at Ancoracoido. This was right on a rocky promontory with magnificent bays on either side one with white sands and the rumble of the Atlantic rollers - and all set off by the setting sun after our meal of spag bol followed by tasty local strawberries. A restful, pleasing day.

Left to right: Cape Finisterre; At home - Ancoradoiro; M2 sorting electicidad; Beach - Muros Sound; Atlantic breakers - Ancoradoiro

Friday 8 May

We have had a splendid day. After some domestics (including successfully using the local washing machine) Ben collected us about 1130. After he admired our stately home (without noticing the national flags on our flagpole) he drove us into the city to view the bridge at Burgo (where an important rearguard action was fought) then on through Elvina (completely built up now) then on to the Jardin de San Carlos where there is a moving tribute to Sir John Moore. We paid our respects, had a memorable tapas lunch in the Ciudad Viejo followed by a long visit to the military museum. Satiated but humbled, we wandered down to the harbour and bamboozled our way into the Real Club Nautico De Coruna for a glass of Albarino and purchase of a team shirt. Marvellous.

Thursday 7 May

We couldn't get out of the site at Bergondo quick enough aiming to move to a 3 star site nearer to Coruna and about 10 miles away. A journey which should have taken 30 mins took us nearly 2 hours with confidence in Daniel the voice at an all time low. We got to Los Manzanos at lunchtime - a far superior place - lunched on sausage, cheese and hard bread then relaxed. M1 cleaned the bikes with great relish then both departed on their respective bikes to independently explore the local points of interest. Good cycling with quite a few manageable hills. Ben Smith (Ann Chadwick´s son who runs his own language school in Coruna) had been in contact so we taxied to La Masia tapas bar in the Plaza de Vigo where we met Ben, his brother Ollie, Ben´s girlfriend Eva (a lawyer from Lugo), Ann (an Australian language student) and several others for a most delightful evening of wine and seafood in the company of these bright, lively and interesting young people who made light of the age gap! Ben has agreed to take us round Coruna on Friday to pay homage to Sir John Moore´s last stand. We are lucky.

Left to right: NE from Mera, Mera to Coruna

Wednesday 6 May

Our plan was to move west on the N6 to the old city of Lugo which boasts the best preserved Roman walls in the world. These walls surround a beautifully preserved old town which the city fathers have done everything to maintain. Largely traffic free, there are plazas, tree lined avenues, marvellous architecture and a dignified and smart population. After a set lunch in the shade (the temperature showed 31 degrees) and some help from the turismo office we had to move on to find a campsite for the night. Frustratingly, sites are not well sign posted and we pressed on to A Coruna arriving at the cocktail hour at a seedy place on the beach owned, managed and tightly controlled by a bloke in an old boiler suit who kept everything locked. Not a place to remain more than one might. Not even a cafe for a post supper Fundador!



Left to right: Lugoesque architecture; Lugo plaza; Roman walls at Lugo

Tuesday 5 May

With too much time in the van, we are adopting a pattern of taking rest days rather than travelling all the time. So today we both rode our bikes separately and met in Ponferrada for a few beers and a tapas lunch which we thoroughly enjoyed. M1 up into the hills for a glorious 25 miler with a fast sweep down into the city, M2 a more leisurely trip along the canal in slower time. M1 also found the first net cafe to update this blog. Who knows, dear reader, when the next opportunity might arise. Posting photos still an elusive problem.

Left to right: Castila Ponferrada; M2 as Worzel Gummidge; Black Tie - Villa San Martin

Monday 4 May

After a quick breakfast of croissant and coffee in a little cafe and a short stop to admire San Marcos it was on to the next destination. Internal facilities used for the first time which nearly cleared the car park!
Shortish journey to Astorga which was delightful. This is where Moore made his decision to split his force to ease his administrative burden at the expense of his fighting ability. There was a plaque to commemorate Moore at Astorga on the city walls as well as a slightly puzzling statue of a British Lion with its foot on a French Eagle commemorating the brave locals who had defended against Napoleon. Impressive though.
Tourist office inconveniently shut so we decided to press on having been given the info that there was a campsite at Santa Colomba de Santoza 15km to the west. This was in the right direction so we pressed on following the Campino pilgrims´route. The pilgrims seem mostly to be middle aged men and fewer women plodding their way westward to Santiago de Compostella. Unfortunately, the campsite was derelict and closed so on we went to Ponferrada (still on Moore´s retreat route). Lovely rolling foothills of heather, broom and other hardys with the Galician mountains still with vestiges of snow getting ever closer with occasional sightings of storks, raptors and quick footed lizards speeding across the road in front of us. The climb was followed by a long descent down into the surprisingly large city of Ponfarrada where the Turismo office next to the impressive castle gave us a good steer to a site near Carracedelo where we are the only visitors. Plenty of space to choose from and all the excellent facilities to ourselves!
BBQ not allowed so M2 improvised to produce a chicken stew with mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes, salad etc which we would have been pleased with even had we had to pay for it in a restaurant.
A better regime established for use of mobile phones to minimise offence to M2!

Sunday 3 May

Decamped in good time for the journey to Sahagun via Riana climbing steadily through wonderful mountainside country. We could have been anywhere in the Alps especially with the mantle of snow on the peaks.
Mistress Van continues to impress. She starts first time and takes the task in hand in her stride. She doesn´t allow her age and dignity to be compromised but moves sedately on to the next rise although she rocks a bit over the rougher terrain. Having crested out at about 1600m, we descended through a magnificently coloured gorge into Riana which boasts a spectacular setting with water on three sides. Sadly, that was where the promise ended as the place was virtually deserted with unkempt modern buildings and many more under construction. All were affected by what we now recognise as a Spanish phenomenon - graffiti. You almost wonder whether the construction companies don´t buy it in that way!
After Riana the terrain became more undulating and gentle with the rolling plains taking us on to Sahagun which was as far as general Sir John Moore took his army in 1808. Sahagun itself fairly shabby so we moved on to Mayorga then Benavente following his retreat route. The river crossing over the Esla across the old bridge Esla at Castrgonzalo could only be seen from the road not close to. Moore blew up the bridge to delay the pursuing French Army. Having seen off the hussars of the French Imperial Guard, the British troops ´relaxed´ by looting Benavente so we avoided going there in case there was still any lingering resentment!
We left the retreat route then to go to Leon where, after some friendly advice from two traffic policemen we ended up in a car park right in the centre of Leon near San Marcos. Much to our surprise, there were other vans there. We went ashore following a ´Lonely Planet´recommendation to a tapas restaurant El Llar on Plaza San Marcelo which was fun although M2 not keen on the sludgy black pudding! M1´s frequent attempts to make the d......d phone do what was want has irritated M2 and adjustments are required!

Left to right: Monastery at Mieses; En route to Riana; Not even breaking sweat!; Asturga

Saturday 2 May

A comfortable night wakened by gentle tolling of cow bells and bird calls.
Having spent the previous few days on the move we decided to stay put and have a walking expedition. We cycled a short distance to get to the start point where a friendly shepherd directed us onto a steep path up the hills of Picos de Europa to the north. This turned out to be quite strenuous with M1 declaring himself not match fit for walking but got there in the end. Scenery spectacular in warm sunshine. Stopped near the snow line for an artisan lunch of bread and cheese before embarking on the steep downward path. The variety of green and verdant trees and bushes with heather and broom etc was remarkable especially so at this time of the year. The countryside lives up to its name of ´Green Spain´. There were plenty of raptors in evidence, together with a myriad of small butterflies and other insects which would have delighted the grandchildren. No frogs yet though!
An evening at the van for pasta then a coffee and cheap Spanish brandy as a sleeping mixture followed in the camp bar. Marvellous!
I am spending too much time and effort trying to post messages on the blog and stay in contact with the new phone. Frustration mounts.

Left to right: Morning at La Viorna; La Viorna HQ; Nearly missed him!!; Lunch spot; Couloir - Pico de Europa

Friday 1 May

After a reasonable night interrupted by prolonged barking from the nearby dog pound, we were woken by the cheery and friendly sparrows who welcomed us to a slightly better morning weather wise. Don´t see many sparrows in the UK any more.

Unhooked and dismantled flagpole and tent and pressed on. Fiona Bruce (Serena) now replaced by Daniel who was obviously an ex city banker moonlighting for Garmin. Very public school and just as difficult to understand when pronouncing Spain's street names but at least he doesn't nag. Ah well! There´s always the map. Stopped on the way at Comillas with its delightful harbour. Good sketching material but this aspect hardly underway at present. Moved on through delightful countryside to Panes then Potes where a helpful Turismo Office showed us a well appointed camps site ´La Viorna´where we set up shop. Managed a short 12 mile bike ride mostly uphill to clear the lungs then a mushroom risotto chez Camper which surprised us with its quality. Good Rioja wine helped us appreciate its appeal. Good crack with Al as we get to know each other even better.

Al at Comillas Harbour